Everyone knows that’s where the caribou cross. They might not know why though. Lee does.

Spring has come to the frozen ground.

We boarded the little boat at 5:45 in the morning in Valdez, shot out across Prince William Sound for two hours out into open water, and so far, at 11AM, had no hint of a fish. All we had were wet clothes and seasickness. It was my first time deep-sea fishing, my first time paying a guide but not the first time I rethought my decision-making skills. What had $330 bought?